Service: Marzocchi 888RC3 2008-2013

The 2008-2013 888RC3 is a simple fork to service as it follows the same procedure as all open bath Marzocchi's, however it just has more parts!

Parts needed 
Y8501451, 38mm seal kit
Y5249, SAE 7.5w oil

Tools Required 
YR5214/C, 38mm seal press

General Tools 
1.5, 2mm allen wrench
17, 24mm socket
Torque wrench

Service Instructions

Disassembly 
1/ Remove all adjuster knobs, be careful when removing the pre-load knob not to loose spring (95) and ball bearing (96) that index’s the adjuster.
2/ Undo both top plugs using a 24mm socket.
3/ Remove spring guide (53) and main spring (51).
4/ Pour oil out of the top of the fork. Make sure you use a suitable container and recycle responsibly.
5/ Undo both foot nuts, RH (37) using a 5mm hex key, LH (88) using a 17mm socket.
6/ Remove RC3 cartridge unit (80).
7/ Separate the stanchions (21) from the lower legs (3) by simply pulling them apart.
8/ Prise the dust seal up (12) using a flat bladed screw driver.
9 /Remove foam ring (19).
10/ Remove oil seal retaining clip (13).
11/ Remove oil seal (14) using tool Y536064GG/C and a flat bladed screw driver.
12/ Inspect and clean all parts.

Assembly 
13/ Install new oil seal (14) using press tool YR5214/C
14/ Install oil seal retaining clip (13).
15/ Install dust seal (12) on to the stanchion (21).
16/ Install foam ring (19) on to stanchion (21). For best performance pre-soak rings in SAE 7.5w fork oil.
17/ Insert stanchions (21) in to the lower legs (3), making sure you do not snag the oil seal.
18/ Using your thumbs seat the dust seals in to the lower leg.
19/ Re-fit RC3 cartridge unit (80).
20/ Re-fit both foot nuts and torque to 10NM.
21/ Re-fill with SAE 7.5w synthetic motorcycle fork oil. For oil volumes please refer to the oil volume table is these differ on model years/ Damper design.
22/ Cycle RC3 damper (80) several times to ensure the cartridge fills completely.
23/ Re-fit the main spring (51) and spring guide (53).
24/ Re-fit both top plugs and torque to 10NM.
25/ Re fit adjusters.

Service: Shiver SC 2002-2005

The Shiver SC service is fairly straight forward , however there are some major relating to the bushing over a standard service, we have detailed the procedure here.

Parts needed
Y850690, 30mm seal kit
Y5249, SAE 7.5w oil

Tools Required
R5089AB, seal removal tool
R5107AC, seal insert tool

General Tools
1.5, 2mm allen wrench
15, 21mm socket
8, 10mm spanner
Flat bladed screwdriver
Electrical tape
Torque wrench

Service Instructions

1/ Remove ETA lever & Pre-load adjusters
2/ Remove cir-clip
3/ Using a 21mm socket remove both top plugs
4/ Remove internal pre-load adjusters, washers & springs
5/ Drain the fork of oil.
6/ Using a 15mm socket remove both foot nuts
7/ Remove damper assembles
8/ Carefully prise both dust seals up and slide along the stanchions
9/ Remove oil seal retaining cir-clip
10/ Place the steerer tube in a vice and sharply pull each stanchion away from the
upper assembly
11/ Remove stanchion bush and slide off seals, washers & the static bush

step 9                                                         step 10                                                    step 11

12/ Place electrical tape over the bush seat and apply oil to the tape
13/ Slide dust seal on, oil seal, washer & static bush
14/ Remove tape and refit stanchion bush

step 12                                                      step 13                                                     step 14

15/ Slide stanchion back in to upper assembly
16/ Using Shiver SC seal tool seat oil seal and refit cir-clip
17/ Re-fit dust seal
18/ Refit damper cartridges and torque foot nuts to 11 Nmm
19/ Re-fill with SAE 7.5w oil, 35mm from the top of the slider when fully compressed
20/ Re-fit springs, internal pre-load assembly
21/ Re-fir top plugs, cir-clips, pre-load adjusters and ETA lever


Tuning
Pre-load Stock spring HARD, options; soft 5141162, medium 5141163, x-hard 5141191
for x-hard use SAE 10w
Rebound 1-3 turns out from fully in, depending on pre-load

Roco Air piggy back shock service

Here is the video guide for the Roco Air piggy back shocks. The TST and the RC are the same shock units with the exception of the mechanical TST valve vs. the shimmed compression valve in the RC, they are interchangeable so you can convert between the two.

The service is complex so if you are in any doubt please send your shock to a specialist.

The seal kit is Y8501251/P and costs £59.95 

2005 66 travel change

Tools
15mm socket
10 & 26mm spanner
Torque wrench

1/ First off all make sure the adjusters are in the middle setting
2/ Unscrew the top cap using a 26mm spanner
3/ Compress the stanchion to expose the top cap assembly
4/ Holding the locknut (51) with a 10mm spanner, undo the top plug & remove
5/ Remove part 52 and remove the spring
6/ Using a 15mm socket, undo both foot nuts
7/ Remove both damper units & drain oil
8a/ if extending to 170mm; remove spacer 61 from damper shaft
8b/ turn part 52 upside down (o-ring on top) and place 61 over the o- ring seat
8c/ if reducing to 150mm; remove part 61 from part 52
8d/ turn part 52 upside down (o-ring underneath)
9/ place the part 61 over the damper shaft
10/ Re-fit damper units
11/ TORQUE foot nuts to 12Nmm
12/ Re-fill using SAE 7.5w oil with 210cc per leg
13/ Re-fit springs
14/ re-fit part 52 and lock nut 51
15/ Tighten lock nut and then top plug on to the damper shaft
16/ Tighten top plug in to the stanchion

Marzocchi set up guide: understanding the basics

Break-in Period
Some forks may require 5-10 hours of use before the fork fully breaks-in. After the bushings, seals, and other parts have matched to each other, the fork will move smoother. The tight tolerances make the fork last longer and work better.

Sag
Sag refers to how much the fork compresses when the rider is in the normal riding position. Marzocchi recommends 10-20% of XC travel and 20-30% of DH travel in sag to provide the best overall ride. The easiest way to measure sag is to put a zip tie around the stanchion and then measure how much the fork compresses when the rider is in the normal riding position. Keep in mind that the normal riding position on a DH bike may not be correct on level ground. Refer to the following charts for reference.

Spring Preload
Spring preload can be done with the external adjusters on top of the fork. Preloading the springs will compress them slightly and increase the initial force needed to compress the spring. Bomber forks can use the maximum amount of preload from the adjuster and the fork will still get full travel. Spring preload is used to fine tune the spring rate to adjust for the proper sag measurement. Minimal spring preload is recommended for better performance and longer working life of the springs, so it is better to change to a stiffer spring rate than to add significant preload (10+ turns.)

Coil Spring
The spring rate of a coil spring refers to the amount of force needed to compress the springs in the fork. Marzocchi offers several different spring kits to coordinate rider weight and riding conditions. All springs are made from the highest quality chromium silicon (CRSI) or Titanium. Marzocchi use linear wound springs. Some older models used Pro-Wind springs which are progressively wound (coil wind gets closer together at one end.) Dual Rate kits use two compression springs per side. Put the longer compression spring on the bottom and then put the short spring on top to later ease disassembly. 

Air Spring
Air spring rate is the amount of air pressure that is in the fork. Marzocchi forks come pressurized for the average rider at about 35psi/3.0bar. Air pressure can be infinitely adjusted using a shock pump to fit rider preference. Be sure to use a pump that can accurately gauge air pressure in the adjustment range. Full air pressure charts can be found via www.marzocchi.com these recommendations should be used as a starting point. Air pressure may need to be adjusted according to riding style, frame design, terrain, and/or personal preferences and may vary between pump brands.

Rebound Damping
Rebound damping controls the rate in which the fork is able to extend. Most models all feature some type of external adjustable rebound damping. Rebound damping should be set fairly fast, but without causing a sudden, harsh force back to the rider. This will allow the fork to comfortably extend to full travel as soon as possible after impact.It is a good idea to get a feel for how the different rebound adjustments affect the fork. On forks that have external adjusters, try turning the adjuster all the way counter-clockwise to the fastest rebound setting and then quickly compress and release the suspension several times. Next test the fork with the adjuster turned all the way clockwise and then somewhere in between. This will demonstrate the differences between damping settings.
Older models using the SSV Non-Adjustable System can change their rebound damping with oil viscosities. Stock oil is 7.5 weight, so changing to a lighter oil (Example: 5 wt.) will increase the rebound speed. Heavier riders using stiffer springs may want to adjust their rebound speed with heavier weight oil. Be sure only to use a high quality motorcycle fork oil like Marzocchi’s Factory Fork Oil.
 
Compression Damping
Compression damping is the oil flow resistance felt when compressing the fork. Compression damping is categorized in two ways: low speed compression and high speed compression. Low speed compression refers to when the fork is compressed slowly and gradually, for example during rolling impacts and rounded bumps. High-speed compression refers to the resistance felt during multiple, hard impacts and square-edged bumps. It is better to be conservative while setting the compression damping because the spring offers resistance to compression as well. Too much compression damping creates a harsh ride because the suspension cannot compress rapidly enough to absorb large impacts. Compression damping is not a substitute for proper spring rate and should not be adjusted until the fork has the proper spring setup for the rider.
RC3 models feature both high and low speed compression damping. Turning the adjuster to the '+' or hard will increase the low speed compression damping and turning to the '-' or soft increases the high speed compression damping with both damping curves crossing in the middle.
Forks that do not have an external compression adjuster can modify their compression damping by changing the oil viscosity. Although most riders will be happy with the stock compression settings, some riders may prefer a different weight oil to coordinate with rider weight and/or spring setup. Keep in mind that changing the oil viscosity will change the entire damping range and will affect rebound as well. 

Set up: Understanding the Marzocchi 888

The 888 has a lot of adjustments, here is a guide to what everything does. Every adjustment is relative to the spring rate, so get the spring correct and work from here.

Spring options

Titanium k=4.4 " 5141956 - soft k=5,5" 5141918 - med k=6.5" 5141957 - hard k=7.7" 5141958 -  x hard
Steel k=4.4 " 5141959 - soft k=5,4" 5141923 - med k=6.5" 5141960 - hard k=7.7" 5141961 – x hard

preload

Spring Preload

Spring preload can be done with the external RH adjuster on top of the fork. Preloading the spring will compress them slightly and increase the initial force needed to compress the spring. Marzocchi forks can use the maximum amount of preload from the adjuster and the fork will still get full travel. Spring preload is used to fine-tune the spring rate to adjust for the proper sag measurement. Minimal spring preload is recommended for better performance and longer working life of the springs, so it is better to change to a stiffer spring rate than to add significant preload (10+ turns.)
Sag refers to how much the fork compresses when the rider is in the normal riding position. Marzocchi recommends 20-30% of DH travel in sag to provide the best overall ride. The easiest way to measure sag is to put a zip tie around the stanchion and then measure how much the fork compresses when the rider is in the normal riding position. Keep in mind that the normal riding position on a DH bike may not be correct on level ground.

rebound

Rebound Damping
Rebound damping controls the rate in which the fork is able to extend. All Marzocchi forks have adjustable rebound damping. Rebound damping should be set fairly fast, but without causing a sudden, harsh force back to the rider. This will allow the fork to comfortably extend to full travel as soon as possible after impact.
The 888’s damping adjuster located on the top of the left hand leg and is anodized red. Turning the adjuster clockwise will slow the rebound speed and therefore turning the adjuster counter-clockwise will speed up rebound.
It is a good idea to get a feel for how the different rebound adjustments affect the fork. Try turning the adjuster all the way counter-clockwise to the fastest rebound setting and then quickly compress and release the suspension several times. Next test the fork with the adjuster turned all the way clockwise and then somewhere in between. This will demonstrate the differences between damping settings.

compression

Compression Damping

Compression damping is the oil flow resistance felt when compressing the fork. Compression damping is categorized in two ways: low speed compression and high-speed compression. Low speed compression refers to when the fork is compressed slowly and gradually, for example during rolling impacts and rounded bumps. High-speed compression refers to the resistance felt during multiple, hard impacts and square-edged bumps.

Too much compression damping creates a harsh ride because the suspension cannot compress rapidly enough to absorb large impacts. Compression damping is not a substitute for proper spring rate and should not be adjusted until the fork has the proper spring set-up for the rider.
Low speed damping is typically used to dial out excessive fork dive or rider induced movement. High speed is typically used to make the forks action more progressive and resist bottoming out.
The compression adjuster on the 888 is located at the base of the LH leg. The RC3 compression adjuster will affect both high and low speed damping, simply put if you set the adjuster all the way to “+” it will give you maximum low speed damping, set the adjuster all the way to “-“ will give you maximum high speed damping.
Both high and low speed damping curves cross in the middle so the adjusters neutral position is in the middle (count the clicks/ turns). Adjusting out from the middle with give you a varying combination of both high and low speed damping, so in theory you have all the combinations of damping you would normally have in two separate adjusters, but in one easy-to-use adjuster.

***graph for visualization purposes only

Volume adj 

Volume Adjust

Volume Adjust is a simple and effective way to control the second half of the compression stroke and is located underneath the rebound adjuter on the top of the LH leg.
The VA works via lowering and raising the top of natural air chamber inside the fork. This gives the same effect as raising or lowering the oil volume; a tuning ‘trick’ often used to make the compression stoke more linear or progressive. The VA offers this with an easy to use external dial. The effect you ‘feel’ is to make the fork more progressive, ideal for larger drops without sacrificing small bump performance.


Note: this following image does not relate to the above feature but relates to a question asked bellow.

Service guide: Marzocchi DH3 + XCR

 this service procedure is for the classic Marzocchi DH3, the routine can also be applied to the XCR (Nitro) and also the XC50/51 models (24mm stanchions)

Seal kit:
Y8501558/C

Tools
YR4208/C – low pressure shock pump
YR5008BZ - Air cap puller
seal press no longer available

General Tools
6mm allen wrench (extra long)
Cir-clip pliers
Flat bladed screwdriver

Service Instructions:
Let all the air out of the fork
Place air cap extractor tool on shreader valve (17)
Tap tool (thus tapping plug) 10mm into the stanchion (19)

Remove cir-clip from inside the stanchion (38H)
Pull upper plug unit out of the stanchion (17)

Empty fork of oil into a suitable container

Use an extra long 6mm allen key down the centre of the stanchion and undo (53)
Remove stanchion (19)
Remove Dust seal(20), cir-clip (38) & oil seal (22)
Clean fork components and check for wear & tear.
Replace oil seal, cir-clip & dust seals.
Replace stanchion & tighten foot screw
Re-fill with 20w oil (XC50/51 = 7.5w) 35mm from the top of the stanchion with the stanchion fully compressed.
Replace upper plug (17) & cir-clip (38H)
Pull plug (17) up hard against the cir clip (38H) using air plug tool to check that the cir clips is correctly seated.
Inflate to 30-45 psi

Workshop: Fixing 55/33 and DJ 'R' cartridge forks

The 2008/9 R system caused many problems for the 55, 33 and DJ fork, the cartridge was a bought-in sealed item that was gas charged. The problem with was that the sealing was relatively poor and the cartridge could suck in oil from the outer leg, this overfilled the damper and created hydraulic lock. The fork became very hard and suffered from a loss of travel.
The good news is that the fork can be fixed relatively inexpensively (if out of warranty). All replacement cartridges are converted to open bath, so when installed, fixes the fork 100% with vastly improved performance. The open bath cartridge differs via the flow holes at the top and bottom of the cartridge.

Part numbers:
Y703897 – fits 33 R/DJ 1/ 2 2008/9
Y703898>A – fits 2008 Z1 SPORT/55 R

Once installed put the following quantity oil (SAE 7.5W) into the leg:
DJ1 – 150 cc
DJ2 – 190 cc
55R – 160 cc

Put air on the other side so to find the best balance for the rider. Suggested range for model fork:
DJ1 – DJ2:  2÷5 BAR
55R : 2 ÷ 3.5 BAR
Push up/down the fork until when the fork works correctly.

Tuning tip: Oiling the foam ring.

For the 2010 season Marzocchi introduced a foam/ felt ring that sits between the oil and dust seal. When originally fitted these were dry, this can lead to a sticky – notchy feeling over small movements. Newer forks have the ring assembled wet, however it is good practice to look after them. *Update: 2013 forks do not have these fitted.

The simple solution is to just cut them out! However by wetting the ring with oil, small pump performance and sensitivity of the fork is greatly improved – in fact this mod was done to my own fork by Marzocchi’s race mechanic and the difference is incredible.

1/ Carefully prise the dust seal up using a small flat bladed screwdriver – be careful not to slip as not to damage the stanchion.

2/ inspect and clean the area underneath the dust seal.

3/ Using a syringe, soak SAE7.5w suspension fork oil (the same as what’s inside) in to the foam ring until it looks completely wet.

4/ Re-seat dust seal

5/ you will get some oily smears on the station the first time you use it, just wipe these off and they will disappear after a very short time.

UPDATE 2013

We have noticed that in the new production of 2013 models there in no foam ring. The tolerance can also be tight, so combined with the NOK dust seal it can create a 'sticky' feeling. Marzocchi recommend using calcium grease under the dust seal to keep things running sweet.

carefully lift the dust seal with a flat bladed screw driver

clean and inspect

We are currently testing Morgan Blue calcium grease

get it up and under the seal, work it in by rotating the seal.

Service guide: TST cartridge bleeding 2008<

This is the bleeding procedure for 2008 onwards TST units (without bladder) that can be opened via a nut at the base of the main body. If you cartridge doesn’t have the nut this guide is not for you & we will get to those later.

This procedure is easy, you just need to take the cartridge out of the fork to do it.

*A lot of 2008 forks had problems with cartridges locking out, this was due to oil in the leg being sucked inside the cartridge and causing hydraulic lock. To make sure this does not happen again, do not use any oil in the slider just use grease instead and the cartridge wont fail again. 

 

Service guide: Roco RC Coil Shock

Here is a great service guide video made by one of the Roco's designers. The Roco was designed to be user serviceable using normal workshop tools. The guide can be used for all of the Roco Cool family, the RC, WC, TST, R.

and the essential service info.

Description	COMPENSATOR DEPTH	Nitrous/Air pressure compensator chamber
AMM.MTB ROCO TST C.70 I.222'07	37mm (0/+0,1)	12/15 bar - 170/210 psi
AMM.MTB ROCO TST C.70 I.228'07	37mm (0/+0,1)	12/15 bar - 170/210 psi
AMM.MTB ROCO TST C.63 I.215'07	35,7mm (0/+0,1)	12/15 bar - 170/210 psi
AMM.MTB ROCO TST C.50 I.200'07	31,7mm (0/+0,1)	12/15 bar - 170/210 psi
AMM.MTB ROCO TST C.50 I.190'07	31,7mm (0/+0,1)	12/15 bar - 170/210 psi
AMM.MTB ROCO TST C.76 I.241'07	39,7mm (0/+0,1)	12/15 bar - 170/210 psi
AMM.MTB ROCO TST C.63 I.222'07	35,7mm (0/+0,1)	12/15 bar - 170/210 psi
AMM.MTB ROCO TST C.57 I.200'07	32,7mm (0/+0,1)	12/15 bar - 170/210 psi
AMM.MTB ROCO RC WC C76-I241'07	39,7mm (0/+0,1)	12/15 bar - 170/210 psi
AMM.MTB ROCO RC WC C70-I228'07	37mm (0/+0,1)	12/15 bar - 170/210 psi
AMM.MTB ROCO RC WC C70-I222'07	37mm (0/+0,1)	12/15 bar - 170/210 psi
AMM.MTB ROCO RC WC C63-I215'07	35,7mm (0/+0,1)	12/15 bar - 170/210 psi
AMM.MTB ROCO RC WC C50-I200'07	31,7mm (0/+0,1)	12/15 bar - 170/210 psi
AMM.MTB ROCO RC WC C50-I190'07	31,7mm (0/+0,1)	12/15 bar - 170/210 psi
AMM.MTB ROCO RC WC C63-I222'07	35,7mm (0/+0,1)	12/15 bar - 170/210 psi
AMM.MTB ROCO RC WC C57-I200'07	32,7mm (0/+0,1)	12/15 bar - 170/210 psi
AMM.MTB ROCO COI.R C70 I222'07	75mm (0/-0,1)	12 bar - 170 psi
AMM.MTB ROCO COI.R C70 I228'07	81,6mm (0/-0,1)	12 bar - 170 psi
AMM.MTB ROCO COI.R C63 I215'07	78,1mm (0/-0,1)	12 bar - 170 psi
AMM.MTB ROCO COI.R C76 I241'07	88,1mm (0/-0,1)	12 bar - 170 psi
AMM.MTB ROCO COI.R C57 I200'07	69,8mm (0/-0,1)	12 bar - 170 psi
AMM.MTB ROCO COI.R C50 I200'07	79,2mm (0/-0,1)	12 bar - 170 psi
AMM.MTB ROCO COI.R C50 I190'07	69,7mm (0/-0,1)	12 bar - 170 psi
AMM.MTB ROCO COI.R C38 I165'07	59,1mm (0/-0,1)	12 bar - 170 psi
AMM.MTB ROCO COI.R C63 I222'07	78,1mm (0/-0,1)	12 bar - 170 psi

Service guide: Z1 Bomber 1997

Found this service manual, these were actually included in the original owners manual. This is nice as the service for the cartridge type fork hasn't really changed over the years and can be considered a definitive guide for all Z1 models 1997-2002.

Travel Adjust - Marzocchi forks 2010 +

In 2010 Marzocchi completely dropped the ATA travel adjust and reverted to a travel limiting spacer.

Models covered are 44 Micro Ti, 44 TST2, 44RLO, 44LR, Corsa LR, Marathon LR, Marathon R, 55CR, 55R.

The travel spacer is available as a spare part, Y536181, ssp £6.95 each

For new 2012/13 LR, CR and R models and additional bleed of the Dynamic bleed cartridge may be necessary, for this you need to watch this video:

 

Service guide: Marathon S 2002

Here is a great pictorial guide to service the Marzocchi Marathon S fork. This guide can be used for later models, however for the 2003 model year Marzocchi changed the bush design to the 2 peice design.

ETA Remote Control Instalation

For 2007 Marzocchi offer a remote control device for the ETA on the XC600 model, this was a lot simpler than the TST version as this had an internal return spring.

1/ Remove the outer cable ferrule and using gear cable cutters shorten the outer cable by 55mm.
2/ Reinstall outer cable ferule and fit the cable to the cable guide.
3/ Using a 2.5mm hex key remove the centre fixing screw and using a 2mm hex key loosen both grub screws.
4/ Remove ETA cable rotor mechanism, making sure you note its resting position.
5/ Tighten the 2mm grub screws to lock the cable in the cable rotor.
6/ Rotate the cable rotor making sure to wrap the cable in the rotor’s cable groove.
7/ Install the rotor in the resting position.
8/ Using a 2.5mm hex key reinstall centre fixing screw.
9/ Check the function of the lever and adjust any cable play using the lock nut adjuster