After 22 years our company has stopped distribution of Marzocchi products from December 31st 2017 and because of this I no longer have the time to reply to comments about Marzocchi.
I have decided to leave this blog and the comments live, so hopefully you can find the answer you need regarding your older Marzocchi fork!
UPDATE: The Marzocchi UK Facebook page is no longer run by us, it is operated by the new UK distributor, thanks for helping us build the page and contributing to it!
Monday, 29 January 2018
Thursday, 19 October 2017
New old stock clearance
We have hundreds of new but obsolete spare parts in stock at killer prices, if you need anything to keep your classic Marzocchi running please contact our team via workshop@windwave.co.uk and we will try to help you!
Thursday, 16 February 2017
Basic suspension set up tips
Firstly, know your fork! It is vitally important you know what model you have so you can correctly understand the performance features of it. Please refer to your owners manual or download one via www.marzocchi.com
When setting up the fork always work in the following order:
1/ Spring rate, this could be via Air pressure or a mechanical spring
2/ Sag
3/ Rebound
4/ Compression
The following is intended to give you an idea on each function but does not specifically refer to any specific model.
Springs: Coil
The spring rate of a coil spring refers to the amount of force needed to compress the springs in the fork. Marzocchi offers several different spring kits to coordinate rider weight and riding conditions.
The spring rate of a coil spring refers to the amount of force needed to compress the springs in the fork. Marzocchi offers several different spring kits to coordinate rider weight and riding conditions.
Spring Preload
Spring preload can be done with the external adjusters on
top of the fork. Preloading the springs will compress them slightly and
increase the initial force needed to compress the spring. Marzocchi forks can use
the maximum amount of preload from the adjuster and the fork will still get
full travel. Spring preload is used to fine-tune the spring rate to adjust for
the proper sag measurement. Minimal spring preload is recommended for better
performance and longer working life of the springs, so it is better to change
to a stiffer spring rate than to add significant preload (10+ turns.)
Springs: Air
Air spring rate is the amount of air pressure that is in the
fork. Air pressure can be infinitely adjusted using a shock pump to fit
rider preference. Be sure to use a shock pump that can accurately gauge air pressure
in the adjustment range.
Sag
Sag refers to how much the fork compresses when the rider is in the normal riding position. Marzocchi recommends between 10-20% for XC and up to 35% for DH/ Enduro to provide the best overall ride. The easiest way to measure sag is to put a zip tie around the stanchion and then measure how much the fork compresses when the rider is in the normal riding position. Keep in mind that the normal riding position on a DH bike may not be correct on level ground.
Damping: Rebound
Rebound damping controls the rate in which the fork is able
to extend. All of the Marzocchi forks have adjustable rebound damping. Rebound
damping should be set fairly fast, but without causing a sudden, harsh force
back to the rider. This will allow the fork to comfortably extend to full
travel as soon as possible after impact.
TIP: It is a good idea to get a feel for how the different
rebound adjustments affect the fork. Try
turning the adjuster all the way counter-clockwise to the fastest rebound
setting and then quickly compress and release the suspension several times.
Next test the fork with the adjuster turned all the way clockwise and then
somewhere in between, this will demonstrate the differences between damping
settings.
Damping: Compression
Compression damping is the oil flow resistance felt when
compressing the fork. Compression damping is categorised in two ways: low speed
compression and high-speed compression. Low speed compression refers to when
the fork is compressed slowly and gradually, for example during rolling impacts
and rounded bumps. High-speed compression refers to the resistance felt during
multiple, hard impacts and square-edged bumps.
It is better to be conservative while setting the
compression damping because the spring offers resistance to compression as
well. Too much compression damping creates a harsh ride because the suspension
cannot compress rapidly enough to absorb large impacts. Compression damping is
not a substitute for proper spring rate and should not be adjusted until the
fork has the proper spring set-up for the rider.
Testing, testing, testing
Find a quick loop with multiple trail features such as drops, roots and rollers, but it is important that it is repeatable. Repeat the loop and experiment with the settings paying attention to how the bike feel is changing on each loop. Make sure you have a shock pump with you and don't be afraid to change the settings, your bike will feel different on the trail to what it did in the car park.
Trouble shooting
The following chart will help pinpoint any problems that may
occur while setting up your Marzocchi suspension fork. Keep in mind that some
problems may be due to one or more cause and that setup should be done in the
order as it appears in this book.
Marzocchi 053 adjustments
The 053 C2R shock is Marzocchi's flagship Enduro air shock it features high and low speed compression and rebound adjust plus a three way trail selector lever with adjustable gate. Here we show you what each function does.
The piggy back air valve can only be charged with the factory charging tool and does not need to be adjusted.
Simple set up:
1/ set sag - Enduro bikes 30-35%
2/ set rebound - as fast as possible while still remaining controlled.
3/ Set low speed compression - to dial out any un-wanted low speed movements or for a firmer ride.
4/ Set high speed compression - to make the bike more progressive on big hits.
5/ Gate adjust - this is down to your personal preference.
Find a quick loop with a drop, some roots and some interesting trail features, but it is important that it is repeatable. Repeat the loop and experiment with the settings paying attention to how the bike feel is changing on each loop. Make sure you have a shock pump with you and don't be afraid to change the settings, your bike will feel different on the trail to what it did in the car park.
Note: compression settings will vary depending on bike and suspension curve design. For example some bikes are very efficient peddlers so platform may not be needed at all. Some bikes have very progressive curves, so high speed may be minimal.
![]() |
| 053 C2R |
| Downhill setting: no platform, compression working purely on shims |
| Trail setting: Firmer compression for general riding |
| Climbing setting: Firm compression for climbing - this mode is adjustable see next. |
| Adjustable blow-off (gate setting): Wind fully in for maximum and out for minimum. RED adjuster for rebound adjustment. |
| High speed compression ORANGE, low speed compression GOLD |
![]() |
| re-charging reservoir *not user adjustable* |
1/ set sag - Enduro bikes 30-35%
2/ set rebound - as fast as possible while still remaining controlled.
3/ Set low speed compression - to dial out any un-wanted low speed movements or for a firmer ride.
4/ Set high speed compression - to make the bike more progressive on big hits.
5/ Gate adjust - this is down to your personal preference.
Find a quick loop with a drop, some roots and some interesting trail features, but it is important that it is repeatable. Repeat the loop and experiment with the settings paying attention to how the bike feel is changing on each loop. Make sure you have a shock pump with you and don't be afraid to change the settings, your bike will feel different on the trail to what it did in the car park.
Note: compression settings will vary depending on bike and suspension curve design. For example some bikes are very efficient peddlers so platform may not be needed at all. Some bikes have very progressive curves, so high speed may be minimal.
Thursday, 25 August 2016
Wednesday, 6 July 2016
Marzocchi 350NCR lower leg service
A lower leg service is easy to do and will keep the 350NCR working in top condition.
It is important to remove the air tube on this model for ease of assembly plus the dummy rod will require greasing.
1/ Remove air valve cover and expel air from the fork
2/ Using a 27mm socket remove the air plug and pull out the air tube
3/ Using a 1.5mm hex key remove the rebound adjuster
4/ Using a 12mm socket remover the damper leg foot nut
5/ Using a 5mm hex key remove the air side foot nut
6/ Separate the CSU form the lowers
7/ Clean the lower leg and re-grease the seals
8/ Turn the CSU upside down and remove the cir-clip that retains
the rod on the air side
9/ Remove rod and clean
10/ Re-grease the rod and replace it in to the stanchion
11/ Re-fit the retaining cir-clip and test the rod to make
sure the cir-clip is correctly seated
12/ Carefully re-fit the CSU in to the lowers making sure
you don’t snag the oil seals
13/ Using a 5mm hex key re-fit air side foot nut and torque
to 11NM
14/ Invert the fork
15/ Grease the air tube
16/ Pour 15cc of SAE 7.5 oil inside the air tube
16/ Pour 15cc of SAE 7.5 oil inside the air tube
17/ Re-fit the air tube
18/ Tighten air plug to 11NM
19/ Using a syringe squirt 15cc of SAE 7.5w oil in to the
DBC leg via the foot nut hole
20/ Using a 12mm socket re-fit the DBC foot nut and torque
to 11NM
21/ Using a 1.5mm hex key re-fit the rebound adjuster
22/ Inflate to desired pressure
Thursday, 18 February 2016
Service guide: TST5 cartridge (with bladder)
Service for the TST 5 cartridge with bladder
General Tools
2.5mm hex wrench
10mm spanner
O-ring for trapping oil in the bladder.
O-ring for trapping oil in the bladder.
Bleeding Instructions
1/ Remove the cartridge from fork
2/ Remove the TST adjuster using a 2.5mm hex wrench
3/ Remove cir-clip
4/ **** Using a 10mm spanner remove compression valve assembly (42). Use a rotating motion so not to damage the O rings. Alternate version uses a 23mm spanner, see bellow
5/ Pour our waste oil and clean and inspect all components
6/ Re-fill the cartridge using SAE 7.5w oil - cycling the damper rod to expel the air
7/ Fill to the very top and re-install the compression valve using a rotating motion, again not to damage the o-rings.
8a/ For models with an 8mm damper shaft
Compress the damper rod so that the exposed rod measures 160mm to the red nut
8b/ For models with an 10mm damper shaft (Marathon Race)
Compress the damper rod so that the exposed rod measures 80mm to the red nut
9/ Using an O-ring roughly the size of the damper, slide down from the top of the cartridge to halfway down the bladder so the oil is trapped in the bladder bellow the O-ring.
10/ Using a 10mm spanner remove compression valve assembly. Use a rotating motion so not to damage the O rings
11/ Extend the lower damper rod fully
12/ Top up the cartridge using SAE 7.5w oil
13/ Re-install the compression valve using a rotating motion
14/ Remove the bleeding O-ring
15/ Test - make sure there is a film of oil under the bladder to ensure lock-out
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