Tuesday, 21 April 2015

Travel change for the 350 NCR (CR) series.

Travel change for the 350 NCR (CR) series.

We categorize procedure as advanced, only undertake this if you are a competent mechanic with access to the correct tools and working environment. If you are in any doubt please ask a professional to perform this process for you.

1/ Remove air-valve dust cap and let the air out of the fork.
2/ Using a 27mm socket, un-screw the air plug and then completely remove the plug and air tube from the station.
3/ Using a 1.5mm hex key, remove the rebound adjuster
4/ Using a 5mm hex key, remove the RH foot nut
5/ Using a 12mm socket, remove the LH foot nut
6/ Separate the upper assembly from the lowers
7/ Remove the dust seal external springs and remove the dust seals. NOTE: Removing the dust seals makes refitting the upper assembly easier.
8/ Once the dust seals have been remove re-fit the external springs (removing the springs prevents damage to the seal).
9/ Using cir-clip pliers remove the cir-clip from the base of the air leg and remove rod assembly.
10/ Remove the disc from the base of the leg, this is a tight fit and may require tapping off with a small hammer.
11/ Remove negative spring.
12/ Install travel spacer and push until you hear an audible click.
13/ Re-install the negative spring and push until you hear an audible click.
14/ Re-install the disc to the bottom of the rod, again this may need tapping down with a small hammer.
15/ Re-install the rod in to the base of the stanchion and re-install the cir-clip. NOTE: Check the cir-clip seating and make sure it’s fully in its groove.
16/ Install the dust seals on to the stanchion and re-fit the upper assembly. BE CAREFUL! Make sure the stanchions do not tear the oil seals as the stanchions pass through them.
17/ Re-fit both foot nuts and torque to 10NM + or – 1NM.
18/ Re-fit the rebound adjuster and secure using the 1.5mm hex key.
19/ Press the dust seals back in to the lower legs.
20/ Invert the air tube and place 25ml of 7.5w oil inside.
21/ Invert the fork and re-install the air tube. NOTE: You will need to tap the air tube in with your hand to get it past the piston head on the rod assembly, as the tube goes in the pressure inside it will increase so make sure you expel the air to make installing easier.
22/ Using the 27mm socket re-fit the air plug and torque to 20NM + or – 1NM
23/ Re-inflate to your desired pressure
24/ Check travel.

Part numbers for travel change spacers:

536181 = 20mm spacer
536216 = 10mm spacer

CR model: the procedure is pretty much the same except that the air tube in the CR is not removable.


350R internal for reference only


Wednesday, 15 April 2015

Understanding the 380 C2R2

Set up: Understanding the Marzocchi 380 C2R2 Ti 2014 & 2015 380 C2R2 Ti and steel spring.



The 380 has a lot of adjustments, here is a guide to what everything does. Every adjustment is relative to the spring rate, so get the spring correct and work from here.

Spring options

Titanium
Soft k=4.4 " 5141956 - RED
Medium k=5,5" 5141918 (standard spring in 2014 forks) - BLUE
Hard k=6.5" 5141957 (standard spring in 2015 forks) - GREEN
X Hard k=7.7" 5141958/P - GREY

Steel
Soft k=4.4 " 5141959 - BROWN
Medium k=5,4" 5141923 - RED
Hard k=6.5" 5141960 (standard spring in 2015 forks) - GREEN
X hard k=7.7" 5141961 - GREY

Note: The stock spring changed between 2014 and 2015 due to the fork feeling too soft as the fork generates far less fiction compared to the 888 model. These springs are also used in the 888.

Pre-load adjuster
Spring Pre-load
Spring pre-load can be done with the external RH adjuster on top of the fork. Pre-loading the spring will compress them slightly and increase the initial force needed to compress the spring. Marzocchi forks can use the maximum amount of pre-load from the adjuster and the fork will still get full travel. Spring pre-load is used to fine-tune the spring rate to adjust for the proper sag measurement. Minimal spring pre-load is recommended for better performance and longer working life of the springs, so it is better to change to a stiffer spring rate than to add significant pre-load (10+ turns.)
Sag refers to how much the fork compresses when the rider is in the normal riding position. Marzocchi recommends 20-30% of DH travel in sag to provide the best overall ride. The easiest way to measure sag is to put a zip tie around the stanchion and then measure how much the fork compresses when the rider is in the normal riding position. Keep in mind that the normal riding position on a DH bike may not be correct on level ground.

Low speed rebound (RED) + High speed rebound (SLIVER)

Rebound Damping
Rebound damping controls the rate in which the fork is able to extend. All Marzocchi forks have adjustable rebound damping. Rebound damping should be set fairly fast, but without causing a sudden, harsh force back to the rider. This will allow the fork to comfortably extend to full travel as soon as possible after impact.
The 380's damping adjuster's are located at the base of the right hand leg, with low speed adjustment in RED and high speed adjustment in SILVER.
Low speed adjustment is for low velocity movements with high speed for high velocity movements. Turning the adjuster's clockwise will slow the rebound speed and therefore turning the adjuster's counter-clockwise will speed up rebound.
It is a good idea to get a feel for how the different rebound adjustments affect the fork. Try turning the adjuster all the way counter-clockwise to the fastest rebound setting and then quickly compress and release the suspension several times. Next test the fork with the adjuster turned all the way clockwise and then somewhere in between. This will demonstrate the differences between damping settings.


Low speed compression (GOLD) + High speed compression (ORANGE)
Compression Damping
Compression damping is the oil flow resistance felt when compressing the fork. Compression damping is categorized in two ways: low speed compression and high-speed compression. Low speed compression refers to when the fork is compressed slowly and gradually, for example during rolling impacts and rounded bumps. High-speed compression refers to the resistance felt during multiple, hard impacts and square-edged bumps.Too much compression damping creates a harsh ride because the suspension cannot compress rapidly enough to absorb large impacts. Compression damping is not a substitute for proper spring rate and should not be adjusted until the fork has the proper spring set-up for the rider.
The 380 features a 3 stage compression circuit (all shims) with adjustable high and low speed damping with the 3rd stage (MID) controlled and adjustable via a shim change (never needed). The MID stage is specifically set for smoothing the transition between high and low stages.
The compression adjuster's on the 380 is located at the top of the RH leg, with low speed adjustment in GOLD and high speed adjustment in ORANGE. Low speed adjustment is for low velocity movements and is useful to dial our brake dive with high speed for high velocity movements and useful for making the fork more progressive. Turning the adjuster's clockwise will slow the compression speed (firmer) and therefore turning the adjuster's counter-clockwise will speed up compression (softer).



DBC Damping
The semi-open bath cartridge combines the damping feeling and the reliability of the open bath cartridge with the lightweight of a closed cartridge.
A compensation port releases any excess oil out of the damper into the lower leg keeping the bushings and wipers lubricated. As soon as the oil level in the cartridge decreases, oil volume is instantly restored by bringing the previously expelled oil back inside. The DBC cartridge use less oil than the full open bath design, thus saving weight and because the cartridge is also open it can’t fail like a closed damper.
A unique feature of the 380's DBC cartridge is that the complete compression module can be removed from the damper (and fork) without dismantling the fork front he bike.

Torque Settings (NM)
Bottom crown fixing screws 6±1
Fork leg top caps 20±1
Pumping element locking bottom nuts 10±1
Pumping element/cartridge bottom nuts 10±1
Rebound adjustment knob fixing screws 2±0.5
Top crown fixing screws 6±1
Wheel axle Allen screws 6±1
Wheel axle screws 15±1

Spares
8501682/P: 20mm Taperwall axle
8507017/P: Axle pinch bolt screws (titanium) (11pcs)
7051315FB/P: Lower crown with tapered steerer, flat black
7051316FB/P: Lower crown with 1" 1/8 steerer, flat black
501641FB/P: Upper crown, flat black
8501760/P: 38mm SKF Seal Kit
507963GD/P: 38mm Espresso Stanchion (pair) 

NOTE: This page will be updated



Wednesday, 23 July 2014

SERVICE: Marzocchi XC500, XC600 & XC700

This service procedure will cover the XC500 (24mm stanchions), XC600 (26mm stanchions) and XC700 (26mm stanchions)  models with the in-line damping adjuster.
XC 700
Tools Required: R5008BZ air cap puller

R5008BZ - TOOL NO LONGER AVAILABLE
General Tools: Cir-clip pliers, flat bladed screwdriver

Service Instructions
1/ Let all the air out of the fork
2/ Place air cap extractor tool on shreader valve
3/ Tap tool (thus tapping plug) 10mm into the stanchion
4/ Remove cir-clip from inside the stanchion
5/ Pull upper plug unit out of the stanchion
6/ Empty fork of oil
7/ Remove dust seal
8/ Remove Oil seal retaining cir-clip
9/ Replace upper plug
10/ Carefully place the stanchion in a vice (the plug will stop you crushing the stanchion)
11/ Pull lower leg away from the stanchion & the two parts will separate,
12/ The oil seal will come out with the stanchion
13/ Remove upper plug
14/ Clean fork components and check for wear & tear
15/ Place the new oil seal on the stanchion and replace stanchion
16/ Replace cir-clip
17/ Replace dust seal
18/ Re-fill with 20w oil (XC50/51 = 7.5w) 35mm from the top of the stanchion with the
stanchion fully compressed
19/ Replace upper plug & cir-clip
20/ Inflate to 30-45 psi

Conic seal ring replacement on the damper. The damper is retained by a grub screw located under the main XC700 decal on the front of the fork. Once the screw is removed you can push the adjuster up in to the leg and the damper will come out.

first image step 8 - second image step 11 - third image stanchion assembly 

Update: The genuine Marzocchi oil seal in no longer available and we are currently looking at aftermarket seals to match them up. The seal size is ID 26mm x OD 35mm x height 6mm. If anybody finds a seal of this size please let me know! 


Tuesday, 3 June 2014

Making adjustments: Internally adjustable SSV damping

Internally adjustable damping was common throughout the Marzocchi range from 2002-2007 and featured in many models including the Z4, MXC, Z1 Wedge, Z1 Drop Off, Drop Off Triple, EXR and many more.

The adjusting tool can either be a brass 3mm hex key, a white plasitc M8 hex key or the multi-size Marzocchi tool YR5162,

top, 3mm, middle 8mm, bottom Marzoochi tool
The adjustable damper can be located inside one or both legs and by adjusting the rebound phase you can alter (hydraulically) the speed the fork will extend.

To adjust the internal rebound damping you will firstly need to expel the air from both legs and remove both top caps using a 21mm socket.

Using the adjustable tool, place tool into the centre of the stanchion and locate in the adjuster valve at the bottom (this is quite tricky, once located you will be able to push the tool right in to the fork).

To increase the damping (slower) rotate tool anti-clockwise, to decrease damping (faster) rotate tool clockwise.
this is a rod removed from the fork so you can better see the valve


Tuesday, 18 June 2013

Service: Marzocchi 888RC3 2008-2013

The 2008-2013 888RC3 is a simple fork to service as it follows the same procedure as all open bath Marzocchi's, however it just has more parts!

Parts needed 
Y8501451, 38mm seal kit
Y5249, SAE 7.5w oil

Tools Required 
YR5214/C, 38mm seal press

General Tools 
1.5, 2mm allen wrench
17, 24mm socket
Torque wrench

Service Instructions

Disassembly 
1/ Remove all adjuster knobs, be careful when removing the pre-load knob not to loose spring (95) and ball bearing (96) that index’s the adjuster.
2/ Undo both top plugs using a 24mm socket.
3/ Remove spring guide (53) and main spring (51).
4/ Pour oil out of the top of the fork. Make sure you use a suitable container and recycle responsibly.
5/ Undo both foot nuts, RH (37) using a 5mm hex key, LH (88) using a 17mm socket.
6/ Remove RC3 cartridge unit (80).
7/ Separate the stanchions (21) from the lower legs (3) by simply pulling them apart.
8/ Prise the dust seal up (12) using a flat bladed screw driver.
9 /Remove foam ring (19).
10/ Remove oil seal retaining clip (13).
11/ Remove oil seal (14) using tool Y536064GG/C and a flat bladed screw driver.
12/ Inspect and clean all parts.

Assembly 
13/ Install new oil seal (14) using press tool YR5214/C
14/ Install oil seal retaining clip (13).
15/ Install dust seal (12) on to the stanchion (21).
16/ Install foam ring (19) on to stanchion (21). For best performance pre-soak rings in SAE 7.5w fork oil.
17/ Insert stanchions (21) in to the lower legs (3), making sure you do not snag the oil seal.
18/ Using your thumbs seat the dust seals in to the lower leg.
19/ Re-fit RC3 cartridge unit (80).
20/ Re-fit both foot nuts and torque to 10NM.
21/ Re-fill with SAE 7.5w synthetic motorcycle fork oil. For oil volumes please refer to the oil volume table is these differ on model years/ Damper design.
22/ Cycle RC3 damper (80) several times to ensure the cartridge fills completely.
23/ Re-fit the main spring (51) and spring guide (53).
24/ Re-fit both top plugs and torque to 10NM.
25/ Re fit adjusters.




Service: Shiver SC 2002-2005

The Shiver SC service is fairly straight forward , however there are some major relating to the bushing over a standard service, we have detailed the procedure here.

Parts needed
Y850690, 30mm seal kit
Y5249, SAE 7.5w oil

Tools Required
R5089AB, seal removal tool
R5107AC, seal insert tool

General Tools
1.5, 2mm allen wrench
15, 21mm socket
8, 10mm spanner
Flat bladed screwdriver
Electrical tape
Torque wrench

Service Instructions

1/ Remove ETA lever & Pre-load adjusters
2/ Remove cir-clip
3/ Using a 21mm socket remove both top plugs
4/ Remove internal pre-load adjusters, washers & springs
5/ Drain the fork of oil.
6/ Using a 15mm socket remove both foot nuts
7/ Remove damper assembles
8/ Carefully prise both dust seals up and slide along the stanchions
9/ Remove oil seal retaining cir-clip
10/ Place the steerer tube in a vice and sharply pull each stanchion away from the
upper assembly
11/ Remove stanchion bush and slide off seals, washers & the static bush
step 9                                                         step 10                                                    step 11
12/ Place electrical tape over the bush seat and apply oil to the tape
13/ Slide dust seal on, oil seal, washer & static bush
14/ Remove tape and refit stanchion bush

step 12                                                      step 13                                                     step 14

15/ Slide stanchion back in to upper assembly
16/ Using Shiver SC seal tool seat oil seal and refit cir-clip
17/ Re-fit dust seal
18/ Refit damper cartridges and torque foot nuts to 11 Nmm
19/ Re-fill with SAE 7.5w oil, 35mm from the top of the slider when fully compressed
20/ Re-fit springs, internal pre-load assembly
21/ Re-fir top plugs, cir-clips, pre-load adjusters and ETA lever


Tuning
Pre-load Stock spring HARD, options; soft 5141162, medium 5141163, x-hard 5141191
for x-hard use SAE 10w
Rebound 1-3 turns out from fully in, depending on pre-load


Tuesday, 30 April 2013

Roco Air piggy back shock service

Here is the video guide for the Roco Air piggy back shocks. The TST and the RC are the same shock units with the exception of the mechanical TST valve vs. the shimmed compression valve in the RC, they are interchangeable so you can convert between the two.

The service is complex so if you are in any doubt please send your shock to a specialist.

The seal kit is Y8501251/P and costs £59.95